Glacier Skiing in the Bavarian Alps of Garmisch-Partenkirchen
A golden cross marks the highest point in Germany on the famed Zugspitze, just south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen.
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Garmisch-Partenkirchen is the union of two mountain villages nestled in the Bavarian Alps of southeastern Germany, gateway to the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak, and renowned as a winter destination for over a century. Home to more than 70 kilometers of slopes between the Garmisch-Classic and Zugspitze ski areas, it is suitable for skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels. Host of the 1936 Winter Olympics, its Kandahar downhill run is famous as one of the steepest and most treacherous slopes in the Alps.
Quick Guide to Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Book your hotel at least eight weeks in advance. We stayed at Hotel Staudacherhof and were blown away by their spa facilities.
Lift passes cost about 62 EUR per day. They cover the Zugspitze and Garmisch-Classic ski areas, which includes 40 kilometers of ski runs across three mountains in Garmisch-Classic, and the glacier ski area of the Zugspitze.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen has a diverse dining scene. From the highest restaurant in Germany to traditional Bavarian Gasthofs, the town offers a crash course in Bavarian cuisine.
Garmisch-Partenkirchen can be reached by either Innsbruck (INN) or Munich (MUC) airports. A rental car or hired transfer will complete the journey in one or one and a half hours, respectively. The town also has a train station serviced by Deutsche Bahn, and the ride from Munich Hauptbahnhof is just under ninety minutes.
Ski season lasts until the end of April, and is busiest over the holidays and then again from the end of February. Americans can take advantage of the long holiday weekends of Martin Luther King Jr. Day and President’s Day to jet over to Europe for a quick ski break.
The Garmisch-Classic Ski area on a crisp February morning.
How We Decided on Garmisch-Partenkirchen
One of the benefits of living so close to the Alps is that a spontaneous ski weekend is always in the cards. Despite the urge to visit much-lauded European ski destination like Zermatt, Switzerland or Courchevel, France, nothing was closer or more convenient to Frankfurt than Germany’s own Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The destination is known as a bastion of Bavarian culture and traditions, and its gentle slopes seemed a perfect fit for two skiers still developing their skills beyond french fries and pizza. We were excited about the wealth of spa accommodations in town, and delighted to find a hotel outfitted with our one must-have: a hot tub.
Where to Stay in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Like I said, we wanted to be pampered by our accommodations. In contrast to those ski trips planned months in advance, where every hour of your time at the resort is mapped out, our trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen was a spontaneous affair. We wanted to have a bit of an Alpine adventure, sure, but we harbored no dreams of outrageous apres-ski parties or extravagant dinners. We were tempted by Boutiquehotel Werdenfelserei and its rooftop pool, but alas, there was no hot tub. The nearby Hotel Zugspitze did offer a hot tub, but they were fully booked. Ultimately, we decided to stay at Hotel Staudacherhof, a charming hotel with a fantastic spa.
Hotel Staudacherhof
A centrally located lifestyle hotel near the Garmisch-Classic Ski area with impeccable spa facilities.
Though we only stayed for the weekend, we loved our time at the Staudacherhof. The wellness hotel has a charming lobby to welcome guests, with an oversized hearth fireplace and plenty of plush seating. The interiors combined traditional pine wood accents with updated furnishings and sumptuous linens. The staff was eager to answer our questions about lift tickets and the hotel’s shuttle to the Garmisch-Classic ski area, and they proactively toured us through a map of the property’s spa area.
The hot tub at Hotel Staudacherhof was one of our favorite amenities
We were there for the hot tub, but the Staudacherhof had so much more to offer! The wellness area offered both an indoor and outdoor pool, and a full steam and sauna area with a separate dry sauna for those of us craving even higher temperatures. There was ample space for relaxing, and outstanding chaises and loungers on which to do it, but my favorite area was the fireplace lounge. Imagine a room anchored by a kiln-like fireplace, stocked with plenty of firewood planks for tossing on the pyre, and a neat row of beds and bean bag chairs on which to lounge. I’ve always loved a good fire, but curling up next to one right after a stint in the hot tub or a schwitz in the sauna, it felt absolutely divine.
Hot tub gear drying by the fire
Breakfast was included in our stay and was a notch above the standard hotel breakfast, with a wider variety of offerings than is typical. The property had on-site parking, as well as the aforementioned shuttle to the slopes. After dinner on Saturday night, we had a nightcap in the hotel bar and struck up a conversation with a fellow American who had been living in Europe for close to twenty years.
Where to Ski in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
The Garmisch-Classic ski area consists of three mountains, the Hausberg, Kreuzeck, and Alpspitze, which sit to the south of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. The runs on the Kreuzeck and Alpspitze areas are the most advanced with red and black runs, including the fabled Kandahar. The Hausberg area is more appropriate for beginners, and includes the Ixis children’s area for those of us who like to start the day with a magic carpet ride and a short, simple run. (I call it the confidence builder.)
The terrain of the Zugspitze - not a tree in sight.
The other main ski area is on the Zugspitze, Germany’s highest peak. It is situated between two glaciers, though the Northern Schneeferner is the real star: Germany’s largest glacier, comprising 77 acres and an average ice sheet thickness of 56 feet. Though Germany has four glaciers in total, the Northern Schneeferner is the only one suitable for winter sports and therefore the country’s only glacier ski area. Five ski lifts service the glacier, which offers a mix of beginner and intermediate runs.
What is Glacier Skiing?
Glacier skiing may evoke images of dangerous pistes made of pure ice, but glacier skiing doesn’t refer to skiing on pure ice. Rather, glaciers provide an extra cold platform for snow powder to rest upon, allowing for skiing earlier in the season or later into the spring. Europe is home to the most glacier ski resorts worldwide, most of which are clustered throughout the Alps. Ski resorts with access to glaciers can offer snow-sure conditions and longer ski seasons, and it’s no coincidence that they exist at higher altitudes, often those over 3,000 meters.
What first struck me about the ski runs on the Zugspitze was the terrain - there was not an evergreen tree in sight. Instead, it was white snow as far as the eye could see, with the tops of distant mountain ranges visible on the horizon. It’s a trippy combination, the cold temperature found at such high altitude, the blinding sun reflecting off all the snow. The blue runs were wide and straight, gently flowing down the mountain with little need for advanced maneuvering.
As with all types of skiing, there are always those who crave adventure and enjoy wandering off-piste. While on a glacier resort, however, it’s important to not venture beyond roped off areas as glacier melting can create dangerous crevices. We didn’t have this temptation, although on a ride down an advanced toboggan run, we watched as several sledders took on too much speed ahead of the curves and went shooting over the embankments.
When you accidentally go down a black tobbogan run…
… but in a weird way you’re happy you did.
What to Do in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
( pounding on the table ) Ig-loo fondue! Ig-loo fondue! Ig-loo fondue!
We came to Garmisch-Partenkirchen for the skiing, and Hotel Staudacherhof for the spa, and in a way, our primary reason for trekking up to the Zugspitze was for igloo fondue. We’d learned about an igloo hotel at the top of Germany’s highest mountain that accommodated overnight guests and served fondue and prosecco to curious tourists during the day.
Count us in!
I wasn’t sure how much kitsch to expect from this igloo. It was surprisingly difficult to find information or photos of it online, and this lack of a vibe pre-check had me mildly worried. But once we arrived, I was completely blown away by how unique and beautiful Iglu-Dorf Zugspitze was. The cartoon ice-block igloos I recalled from my youth were no match for this structure, with its walls of snow and ice adorned by huge sculptures of happy yetis, giant fish, and other whimsical creatures.
Look at that gooey, delicious cheese!
The staff were gracious and attentive, and after lunch gave us a tour of the hotel and even a behind the scenes peak at how it’s constructed every season. Fondue is served inside the igloo and is offered at two tiers ranging from between twenty to sixty euros. We splurged for the deluxue situation and enjoyed every last bite! Reservations can be made online here.
Where to Eat in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
After arriving in town, we were looking for a quick dinner spot on Friday, and the concierge at our hotel recommended Wirtshaus Wolpertinger, a traditional Bavarian style tavern with huge portions of schnitzel, spätzel, and beer. We ordered the Schlittenschmaus (auf English, “Sleigh Feast”), a platter of pork steaks in various sauces, with sides of spätzel and salad, that reminded me of a sushi boat, but for German food. The casual, beer hall style tavern is typical of Bavarian and quite common throughout Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Another which came highly recommended was Zum Wildschütz.
Like a sushi boat, but for German food
On the Partenkirchen side of town, Gasthof Fraundorfer has achieved something of a hallowed status for its rich Bavarian food, cozy atmosphere, and authentic ambience complete with live music and dancing. Coffee aficionados flock to Wildkaffee Café, a modern coffee roaster in the heart of town, for its pour overs and flat whites, while those searching for an old-world café may find Franz Krönner Konditorei und Cafe e.K. to be more their speed.
Salmon salad bowl from Drehmöser 9
On the slopes of the Garmisch Classic ski area, Drehmöser 9 proved more than the usual mountain hut kitchen. The spot, located next to the Hausbergerbahn lift, served up fresh salad bowls in addition to traditional fare like currywurst, as well as Augustiner-Bräu beer and shots of Jägermeister to fortify skiers for their afternoon runs.
How to Get Around in Garmisch-Partenkirchen
Though we drove down from Frankfurt and therefore had a car to get around, we found ourselves walking to restaurants and bars throughout the weekend. The town is small and fully equipped with sidewalks, even in heavy snow. Our hotel’s shuttle transported us to the Garmisch-Classic ski area and saved us from having to navigate the parking lot there on a Saturday morning.
As for the trip out to the Zupspitze, we had two options: either to drive to from town to the Seilbahn Zugspitze station and take the cable car from the Eibsee Lake up to the top of the mountain, or to take the Zugspitzbahn cogwheel train from town to the 2,600 meter platform and then take the Gletscherbahn cable car for the remaining 1,000 meters to the mountain’s peak.
The Zugspitze Cable Car, taking you to the top of Germany
Our deciding factor was time, and after opting for a later breakfast the Seilbahn Zugspitze was the quicker option, even with the drive out to Eibsee Lake. It was the right choice for our itinerary, but bear in mind that the Seilbahn Zugspitze is steep, y’all! It travels 10,541 feet (3,213 meters) up the side of a mountain, which might make anyone with a slight fear of heights a little uneasy. (Slowly raises hand…) That said, the moment the cable car crests above the peak, and the mountain’s wall of stone gives way to expansive views of snow-drenched mountains and wide, autobahn-like pistes, that momentary anxiety melts away, replaced by the comforting warmth of awe.