The Pearl of the Dolomites: a Cortina d’Ampezzo Ski Holiday to Remember
Cortina d’Ampezzo’s charming city center, with Hotel de la Poste on the right.
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Cortina d’Ampezzo is a world-renown ski resort located in the Dolomite Mountains of northeastern Italy, long beloved for its beautiful scenery, epicurean cuisine, and unique Südtirol charm. Nestled within the nearly 30,000 acre Dolomiti Superski area, Cortina d’Ampezzo boasts a full range of slopes for skiers and snowboarders of all skill levels. A perennial destination for winter sports championships, Cortina d’Ampezzo will co-host the 2026 Winter Olympics together with Milan.
Quick Guide to Cortina d’Ampezzo
Book your hotel at least six months to a year in advance. We stayed at Hotel de la Poste and loved it.
Lift passes cost about 75 EUR per day. They cover the Dolomiti Super Ski area, which includes not only the slopes of Cortina but also Alta Badia and Val Gardena. Just like Cortina, Alta Badia is great for beginning and intermediate skiers.
Cortina has an amazing fine dining scene. From mountainside lunches in charming rifugios to Michelin starred dinners, the city’s gastronomy scene is top notch.
Cortina can be reached by either Venice (VCE) or Innsbruck (INN) airports. A rental car or hired transfer will complete the journey in two or two and a half hours, respectively.
Ski season lasts until the end of April, and is busiest over the holidays and then again from the end of February. Americans can take advantage of the long holiday weekends of Martin Luther King Jr. Day and President’s Day to jet over to Europe for a quick ski break.
How We Decided on Cortina d’Ampezzo
It seemed as though we’d considered every European ski destination before settling on Cortina d’Ampezzo. We yearned for the glamour of Swiss resorts and the unabashed après ski culture of Austria mountains, even considered the refined purpose-built resorts nestled in the French Alps. Skiing the Italian Dolomites was always in the back of our mind though, a bit of an off-beat choice which continued to grow in intrigue as cities like Gstaad, Kitzbühel, and Courchevel fell off our list. The destination had a lot going for it on paper:
a renowned reputation for fine gastronomy,
a great mix of beginner and intermediate slopes, and often mentioned as one of the best ski resorts in Europe for beginners,
a ski resort close to Venice, which was a must for my travel partner,
a charming European ski town vibe, and
a value for the money that felt right for us, as the cost of skiing in Cortina is less expensive than most US resorts, as well as European ski destinations in Switzerland and France.
And then there was the allure of the Dolomite Mountains themselves, and the rumor that in the waning sunlight an hour or so before dusk, the mountains appear to glow with a pink, rose quartz hue.
The Dolomites as viewed from the Socrepes slope.
The Dolomite region’s profile has been steadily growing among American audiences over the past five years, but the increased buzz hasn’t resulted in a rush of American tourists. Cortina still has an air of mystery about it, and an undeniable dose of Italian cool, from the herb-infused grappa that’s swigged on the mountain to the sounds of “scusi!” echoing off the slopes as fellow skiers and snowboarders go whizzing by.
Where to Stay in Cortina d’Ampezzo
Deciding where to stay in Cortina required a bit of soul searching. Did we want to soak up the charm of the city, or was proximity to the slopes more important. Grand Hotel Savoia beckoned with its five-star spa, while the pine-clad traditionalism of Franceschi Park Hotel momentarily caught our eye. In the end, our lust for après-ski won out, and we settled on Hotel de la Poste, a stylish in-city chalet with an attentive concierge and cozy lounge.
Hotel de la Poste
A stylish in-city chalet with an attentive concierge and cozy après-ski lounge.
Our time at Hotel de la Poste was wonderful in so many ways. The four-star hotel has a good variety of room types in addition to the standard doubles and junior suites. I love when a property like Hotel de la Poste offers a few single rooms for solo travelers or triple rooms designed to comfortably host a small group of friends. We booked very early in the season and were able to snag a pair of single rooms at a competitive rate. History buffs and literature fans alike will be drawn to the property’s Hemingway Suite, which hosted the American author Ernest Hemingway several times during his travels through Northern Italy.
The service was top-notch, with the hotel’s attentive concierge assisted us with everything from dinner reservations and taxi transfers to ski lessons and rentals. Breakfast was included in the room rate and substantive enough to power us through a morning on the mountain. The property includes a ski closet for storing equipment, and a dedicated parking lot a short walk from the hotel. There are two restaurants on site, though both were booked solid during our time there. Downstairs, behind the lobby, sits the wood-paneled lounge, a perfect spot to curl up after a day on the mountain and unwind with a cocktail.
Where to Ski in Cortina d’Ampezzo
Skiing Cortina for Beginners
Can you learn to ski in a day? I was certainly going to try. As soon as I arrived in town, I scooped up my ski rentals, changed into my kit, and ran over to the slopes for my first ski lesson. I had watched a ton of YouTube videos for first time skiers to better understand the lingo and the techniques, but this all quickly reduced in my mind to pizza and french fries skiing.
Hire a Ski Instructor
My ski instructor was helpful and patient, and by the end of the afternoon I was going up and down the baby slopes without any problems. An instructor will guide you through the process of skiing from start to finish. They’ll help you make sense of the equipment and how to get appropriately suited up, they’ll demonstrate how to navigate towards the slopes and how to board the various types of ski lifts, from gondolas and chair lifts to drag lifts like T-bars and button lifts. An instructor is able to demonstrate various types of ski techniques and break them down for easy learning. In Cortina, the cost for a private ski instructor ranges between €50 - €70 per an hour.
Absolutely dominating the baby slopes after my first lesson
My Tip for First Time Skiers
On our second day out, I realized that I had made a major mistake during my first lesson: I had not fallen. This may sound like a great achievement, but it meant that my first tumble happened away from the calming guidance of a ski instructor, and it spooked me for the rest of the morning. My tip for first time skiers? Make it a point to fall during your lessons, even if you have to make a comical side flop from the standing position. Your instructor will be able to guide you on the right way to get back up, and caution you about incorrect techniques that might lead to injury. After my morning fall, I called my ski instructor and arranged for us to meet up again after lunch. It was a much more involved lesson, and included a couple of organic falls - a necessary learning experience for any skier.
Best Cortina d’Ampezzo Slope for Beginners
Most of the ski schools are located at the base of the Socrepes and Pocol mountains, part of the Tofana mountain group. This was one of our favorite areas to ski during our time in Cortina, as I could stick to the easy slopes as I got my legs under me, and my friend, who is used to skiing red and black slopes in Utah and Wyoming, was able to explore the more challenging terrain of Tofana proper.
Skiing Cortina for Intermediate and Advanced Skiers
Despite my beginning status, I was lucky to be traveling with a friend who is a much more advanced skier, and was able to get his feedback on the red and black runs that Cortina is famous for.
Tofana
The Tofana mountain group sits to the west of Cortina d’Ampezzo, and together has a variety of slopes for all skill levels. Its highest peak is 3,244 m (10,643 ft), and it’s home to one of Cortina’s most renown runs, the Ollimpia delle Tofane, which for decades has hosted international ski competitions and was immortalized in the 1981 James Bond film For Your Eyes Only. While Tofana proper is the most advanced, with a variety of challenging red and black runs, the slopes at the base of the mountain group, including Socrepes, Lacedel, and Pocol, are well-suited to children and beginners.
Faloria and Cristallo
The Faloria and Cristallo ski areas sit to the east of town and demand a more intermediate skill level. There’s a snowboard park and breathtaking views of the valley from Rifugio Faloria at the top of the cable car. Cristallo is especially known for the spectacular scenery visible from its slopes.
The view from Rifugio Lagazuoi
Falzarego and Lagazuoi
Falzarego and Lagazuoi are about a thirty minute drive outside of Cortina, but offers high altitude look-outs and scenic intermediate runs. The views atop Rifugio Lagazuoi, at 2,752 meters (9,301 ft) are awe-inspiring, and worth the trip alone.
Best Ski Experiences in Cortina d’Ampezzo
Tofana
Tofana Ski Tour
Those seeking to explore Tofana shouldn’t miss this 4-hour ski odyssey through the Tofana area with an expert guide. Whether a seasoned skier craving the steep descents of the high Ravalles or Pomedes zones, or a leisure skier more intent on the gentle lower slopes, this tour caters to diverse skiing abilities. Between runs, the tour pauses at rifugios along the way for well-deserved refreshments. Offered both in the morning and afternoon, this is a fantastic opportunity to immerse yourself in the wonder of the Tofana ski area under the guidance of a seasoned expert.
First World War Sites Ski Tour
History buffs should consider this 6-hour ski tour delving into the historical landscapes of World War I. Glide through the evocative terrain surrounding Monte Col di Luna, site of intense war battles, and discover historical remnants, from trenches to forts, gun posts, parapet walks, and guard posts. The skiing adventure covers 49 miles (80 km), weaving through the stunning winter scenery as you absorb the rich historical narrative. A midday pause serves as a well-deserved break and and a chance to relish traditional local dishes in the warm embrace of a mountain rifugio.
The Lagazuoi entrance to the Super 8 Ski Route
Super 8 Lagazuoi and 5 Torri Ski Tour
Lauded as the most breath-taking ski tour in the Dolomites, the Super8 ski tour is a must-do for many skiers visiting Cortina d’Ampezzo. This 6-hour Super8 ski adventure traverses the landscape in a mesmerizing figure-8 shape, unveiling the majesty of renowned peaks like Marmolada, Tofana, Civetta, 5 Torri, and Pelmo. Glide through pristine valleys, witness the frozen beauty of waterfalls, and experience the charm of traditional mountain rifugios along the way. Ascend via chair lifts to access stunning slopes, and for a touch of nostalgia, savor the thrill of a horse-powered ski pull. This unique ski tour promises not only breathtaking mountain top panoramas but also an unforgettable journey through the captivating winter tableau of the Dolomites.
More details can be found below:
What’s a Rifugio?
A quick aside about the mighty mountain rifugio. At its most basic definition, a rifugio is a mountain hut, typically found throughout the Italian Dolomites at high elevations along hiking trails or ski slopes. There are hundreds of rifugios scattered throughout the Dolomites, most of them family owned and operated, which cater to through-hikers and skiers alike. The accommodations can range from the truly basic, offering just a simple place to sleep and a shared bathroom, to the more comfortably appointed with private rooms and amenities like outdoor saunas.
Where to Dine and Après-Ski in Cortina d’Ampezzo
Confession time: the major reason I wanted to go on a ski holiday was to partake in après-ski. Lifestyle photographer Slim Aaron’s après-ski prints lived rent-free inside of my brain: A throng of skiers enjoying a drink on the sun-drenched slopes, their skis standing absentmindedly straight out of the snow as a clear signal that the day had moved onto a new phase. What I wasn’t looking for was the rowdy, table-dancing and music blasting après which resorts in Austria are known for. Though the après scene in Cortina is much more relaxed and casual, we still had a great time.
In Cortina, après-ski usually begins with a celebratory drink on the slopes as everyone reassembles at the end of the day. Birra Dolomiti, the local Italian pils, was our choice of thirst-quencher after a full day of sport, though some around us were imbibing in a glass of wine or a shot of herb-infused grappa. Then we hauled out gear back to town and stowed it away in the hotel’s ski closet, eager to continue our après in town.
When in Italy, order an Aperol Spritz
Bar Sport sits in the center of town on Corso Italia and becomes a bustling jaunt in the late afternoon as skiers descend from the mountains. The outdoor tables are dotted with countless Aperol spritzes (this is Italy, after all), the aforementioned Birra Dolomitis, and bombardinos, a warm mixture of Advocaat (an eggnog-like liqueur) and brandy, usually topped with whipped cream. The name means “little bomb” in Italian, and if you’re not careful, this drink can live up to its name. For those who have dinner reservations, order the Calimero variation with espresso and a little less alcohol. Bar Sport also serves pastries and sandwiches to tide you over until dinner.
During our stay, Ville Venete, the lounge bar Hotel de la Poste, was the center of our après-ski universe. The luxe space is outfitted with velvet upholstered banquettes and ottomans in emerald and copper hues, while huge picture frame windows peer out onto the main street of town, causing one to wonder, who’s really watching who, the nightly revelers or the passersby? The cocktail list is a local twist on classics like the negroni and manhattan, and on select evenings the venue hosts DJs to liven up the atmosphere.
Another top spot in town is Enoteca, a cozy wine bar beloved by locals and visitors alike. The offerings scribbled on the mirrored menu are mostly Northern Italian and Austrian varieties, and the staff are adept at guiding you towards the perfect vintage for your palate. Its narrow bar crowds quickly, so be sure to arrive early or late to avoid the pre-dinner crowds.
Dining options abound in Cortina d’Ampezzo and the wider Dolomite region. Ristorante Al Camin, resplendent with the bleached wood of Alpine decor, combines fresh Alto Adige ingredients and attentive friendly service to a nightly crowd of both locals and tourists.
Baita Piè Tofana is a chic iteration of mountain side rifugio dining, serving traditional dishes at the foot of the Tofane mountains. In town, Enoteca Cortina is a cozy wine bar beloved by locals. Its narrow bar crowds quickly, so be sure to arrive early or late to avoid the pre-dinner crowds.
Cortina after dark
Where to Shop in Cortina d’Ampezzo
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Franz Kraler is the king of Cortina’s luxury shopping scene, and their multi brand boutique is not to be missed
Dior
Gucci
Golden Goose
Louis Vuitton -
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💕 If you plan on shopping while in Europe, read the full guide on Luxury Shopping in Europe, how to prepare, and what to expect. 💕
How to Get Around Cortina d’Ampezzo
There’s simply no getting around the fact that while Cortina has a lot of different ski areas to experience, they aren’t really connected like at other resorts. There is no lift access in the center of town, only the Faloria lift on the southern outskirts, and though there is a ski bus service, we found that renting a car was the easiest way to get around to the various slopes we wanted to check out. Parking is provided at most ski areas, but lots fill up quickly so it’s best to arrive as early as possible to avoid the crowds.
Once you’re back in town and the ski gear has been hung up to dry, it’s a good idea to arrange taxis for any evening activities, especially dinners. Taxis require advance reservation, and a hotel concierge should be able to arrange these according to your dinner plans. If you’ve opted for an AirBnB or similar vacation rental, though, you will need to arrange these taxi transfers on your own.